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Just
in time for Spring
Rick's Picks - April
2010
by Rick
VanSickle
Every
year, just like clockwork, tiny
miracles pop up all over Ontario.
Tiny green spears start bursting
through the muddy soil of our spring
gardens. Asparagus, glorious asparagus!
It's the first vegetable to show
itself after a cold winter's slumber
and for foodies, chefs and wine
lovers it's the official start of
the spring culinary season.
Ontario
asparagus is plentiful in May and
June and it's always a mad dash
to scoop up the freshest asparagus
you can find. Asparagus is a tasty
vegetable that just happens to be
a perfect match for one of the greatest
wines on the planet — the wonderful
riesling.
And
spring is the perfect time to enjoy
both.
In
Germany it's almost a ritual when
the "spargle" arrives.
Festivals, restaurants, wineries,
markets and home chefs pay tribute
to the white variety of asparagus,
which is just green asparagus that
is grown without sunlight.
Only
a small percentage of all the asparagus
grown in Ontario is the white variety.
It's considered a delicacy in Germany
and other European countries and
you may find that it is more expensive
than its green cousin. It is slightly
thicker in size but it is also thought
to be milder in taste than green
asparagus.
White
or green asparagus will work in
most recipes. And it also holds
true when matching it to riesling
wine.
We
have the benefit of living in a
province rich in asparagus and home
grown Ontario rieslings to match
it with. But, you can also try different
styles from around the world, including
Germany, to match with this spring
delicacy. Here
are some to choose from:
Niagara
Rieslings:
Niagara
is now producing world-class riesling.
It is the one grape that shows consistently
well vintage-to-vintage. Styles
range from bone dry to super sweet
(riesling icewine). It's in the
middle, slightly off-dry, where
the best rieslings show their distinct
minerality, purity of fruit and
zesty flavours. Try these:
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Cave
Spring Estate Riesling
2008
($18,
Vintages)
Cave
Spring is the benchmark
for riesling in Canada.
It simply has the most
extensive program right
up to the iconic CSV
Riesling. This is a
mid-point wine that
shows peach, citrus,
mineral and petrol notes
in a dry style.
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Fielding
Estate Riesling 2008
($16,
LCBO)
This
represents everything
that is great about
Niagara riesling with
a generous nose of citrus
zest, apple, orange
peel, honey and lime
that all follows to
the palate adding a
subtle bead of minerality.
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Henry
of Pelham Riesling
Reserve 2008
($15,
LCBO)
This
is another very good
producer of riesling
in myriad styles. The
only hints of sweetness
are due to ripe apple-citrus
flavours. An intense
style with a nice, clean
finish.
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And
a couple of international rieslings:
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Dr.
Loosen Dr. L Riesling
($14,
Vintages)
One
of the most popular
quality German rieslings
in North America. This
is Loosen's entry-level
wine but don't let that
fool you, it's fruity,
zesty and a wine you
can enjoy as a sipper
or paired with asparagus
or seafood.
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Trimbach
Riesling 2007
($20,
Vintages)
One
of my favourite regions
for riesling is in Alsace,
France. The wines here
tend to be a bit more
fleshy and substantial.
This riesling has a
nice minerality and
peach notes with the
acid held in check.
A bolder style, but
delicious.
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Wynns
Coonawarra Riesling
2008
($17,
LCBO)
Fresh
aromas of lemon rind,
citrus and white flowers.
This is made in a bone
dry style with zesty
lemon-lime and grapefruit
flavours bolstered by
lively acidity.
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