By
Rick VanSickle
BRANSON,
Missouri — The United States has
a rich history of producing wine that
dates back some 300 years and, believe
it or not, it is now produced in all 50
states.
While
we are accustomed to seeing popular wines
from California, Washington State and
Oregon, one wouldn't necessarily expect
to see wines from the Ozark Mountain state
of Missouri, and to be more exact, in
Branson, the bustling "live music
show capital of the world." Fact
is, one of the state's largest and most
historic wine producers, Stone Hill Winery,
has found a home among the endless live
theatres and tribute halls that draw millions
of visitors every year.
The
Missouri wine industry has enjoyed a fascinating
history since it was shut down during
Prohibition in the 1920s. Prior to that
puritanical period in history, when it
was illegal to make alcohol, Missouri
was churning out over two million gallons
of wine annually, second only to California
in terms of volume. But Prohibition dealt
a fatal blow to the Missouri wine industry
that only began its recovery in the 1960s
with the rebirth and restoration of a
few original wineries.
Today
the industry is thriving with over 70
wineries farming 1,350 acres of vineyards
and raking in over $30 million in annual
income from wine. The wines are centred
mostly in mid-state, around the birth
of wine in Missouri, Hermann.
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But
with the burgeoning show biz city
of Branson, and its huge influx
of visitors year-round, it only
made sense to open a working winery
and cater to tourists looking for
something a little different. Stone
Hill Winery is Missouri's
oldest and most awarded winery with
a history that dates back 150 years
at the original facility in Hermann.
The
Branson winery was opened in 1986
and includes 12,000 square feet
of tasting rooms, retail space and
a production area that primarily
makes the Stone Hill Spumantes and
popular cream Sherrys. The grape
juice for both these styles of wines
are shipped 360 kms south from the
main vineyards in the Hermann area
of the state.
The
experience in Branson is all about
good old southern charm and hospitality.
A free tour around the modern facility
begins with a video on the proud
tradition of Missouri winemaking
with a focus on the vineyards and
cellars of Stone Hill's main winery
in Hermann. From there, guests are
guided through the sherry-making
facility where the powerful aromas
of maturing Sherry, which is first
baked and then aged in oak casks,
awaken the senses.
Next,
the tour takes guests through the
bottling room where the winery's
famous Spumante wines are finished.
And finally, the tour ends in one
of the six tasting rooms with a
tasting from a knowledgeable staff
member who guides guests through
the various wines sold at the property.
The
tour and tasting is fun for both
the novice and serious wine lover.
A large and diverse selection of
wines ensures there's something
for everyone. The styles range from
the dry, full-bodied Norton, a red
wine that has captured international
recognition, to the sweet and fruity
Pink Catawba and Concord.
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Stone
Hill Winery
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Cross
J Vineyard Norton 2007
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The
showroom
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I
was guided through a tasting at Stone
Hill by Bob Bakanowicz, an enthusiastic
and well-informed wine expert, who knows
the Missouri industry inside and out.
My first question to Bakanowicz was why
were there no vineyards in the Branson
area for use in the wines.
"It's
pretty simple," he explained with
a laugh. "You can't grow grapes in
limestone and rocks."
And that's the reason the winery in Branson
is used mainly for tours and a production
facility to make two of the key wines.
The
two Spumantes, one semi-sweet and the
other blush style, are easy drinking sparklers
with plenty of fruit flavour in a bubbly
style.
The
Cream Sherry was really enjoyable with
lush sweet notes, toffee, red fruits and
a nutty finish.
There are also a wide array of Missouri
specialties including a Vidal Blanc, a
Chardonel, Hermannsberger, Chambourcin,
Norton, Traminette, Steinberg, Vignoles,
Vinscatto and various blush, roses and
bubbly wines with varying sweetness and
priced between $8 and $25 US per bottle.
Most
impressive to me was the Stone Hill
Winery Cross J Vineyard Norton 2007.
The Norton is the official state grape
of Missouri and perfectly suited for the
long, warm summers and cool winters. The
Cross J Vineyard is situated high above
the Missouri River and surrounds the home
of the winery's owners, Jim and Betty
Held, in Hermann.
It's
a rare and unique red wine that shows
wonderful currants, wild blackberries,
spice and defining oak notes on the nose.
It's quite bold on the palate with beautiful
fruit and spice notes. Just a great wine
for $25.
Some
of my other favourites from the winery
include the Cream Sherry ($16), a rich
and oaky Port ($20), the Steinberg White,
like an off-dry riesling and the winery's
top seller ($11) and the Vignoles, a rich,
semi-sweet white with peach and honey
notes ($13).
rickwine@hotmail.com
02/10
